Jaap Rameijer's Blog

A special newsletter. Describing the wonderful adventures of an American group, visiting the South of France. Six people, two men and four women, staying in France for eleven days. With me as the driver, the driver of a minibus seating eight passengers, as the tour guide and the lovely Lillis as the tour leader. It is basically a funny story, but also a story with some interesting aspects. The places we visited were really impressive. Power places, special places, lovely places. So people were very enthusiastic. And showed it, and said so. So much so that I once called this tour should be called “The Wow and Gosh Tour”. A great title for a new book. So enjoy my friends!

First we take the road to Quillan. There is not much to be seen in Quillan, but there are wonderful shops and good restaurants. Then we can go east through he Gorges de Pierre Lys to Axat. From there we have several choices. A little further east to the Chateau Puilaurens. One of the best preserved Cathar castles. Nearby is the beautiful ND de Laval. Then, at St Paul de Fenouillet, we turn south. A side step to the aqueduct d’Ansignan and then to Sournia with its strange rock formations. Over the mountain to Prades, a big city. With south of Prades the Abbey of St Michel de Cuxa and further south, at he foot of the magic mountain de Canigou the abbey of St. Martin du Canigou.

The first place we meet is Limoux. Know for its carnival and the Blanquette de Limoux. A kind of champagne that tastes better than the real champagne and is much cheaper. In Limoux we will visit the church of St. Martin, with a stained glass window where Jesus and Mary Magdalene sit at equal height. To the east is the abbey of Polycarpe, just north of Limoux is the basilica ND de Marceille with its Black Madonna and healing waters and a little further north is the abbey of St Hilaire.

In the east there is so much to be seen that we better take two days. We first go to Bugarach, then to the Col de Linas from where most people climb the Pech Bugarach and then on to Cubieres. It has a lovely little church. Here we turn south to the famous Gorges the Galamus. A spectacular road hacked out of the rocks in the nineteenth century. Halfway is the Hermitage de St Antoine with a church in a huge cave. Really spectacular. On to St Paul de Fenouillet in a broad valley stretching all the way to the Mediterranean. An area famous for its wines. Especially the Cotes de Roussillon, the Rivesaltes, the Banyuls and the Fitou wines.

Just as in the east, the west has also much to offer. So we better take two days. First to Esperaza, then the inner road to Fa and Rouvenac and from there to the castle of Puivert. The castle of the troubadours and courtly love. From Puivert to Belesta with the ND du Val d’Amour and its Black Madonna. Then south. We pass the strange Fontaine the Fontestorbes where the water rises and falls every half hour. But our main objective is Montsegur. The famous Cathar castle. An awesome sight. The village is also pretty. It has a museum and a lovely church with  two Black Madonna’s.