Just as in the east, the west has also much to offer. So we better take two days. First to Esperaza, then the inner road to Fa and Rouvenac and from there to the castle of Puivert. The castle of the troubadours and courtly love. From Puivert to Belesta with the ND du Val d’Amour and its Black Madonna. Then south. We pass the strange Fontaine the Fontestorbes where the water rises and falls every half hour. But our main objective is Montsegur. The famous Cathar castle. An awesome sight. The village is also pretty. It has a museum and a lovely church with two Black Madonna’s.